Duration: 45 Days | Region: Baltoro Glacier, Karakoram Range | Best Time: June – August
Organized by PakJourney – Professional Mountaineering Logistics in Pakistan
Overview
The Mustagh Tower (also spelled Muztagh Tower) is one of the most stunning and technically demanding peaks in the Karakoram Range, standing at 7,248 meters (23,786 ft). Its dramatic needle-like profile dominates the skyline along the Baltoro Glacier route, often drawing comparisons to a cathedral spire or sentinel guarding the path to K2 and the Gasherbrums.
Positioned near the Mustagh Pass (5422m)—a strategic historical route—the tower offers both alpine and rock climbing challenges, making it a coveted objective for elite alpinists.
The first successful ascent of Mustagh Tower was made in 1956 by a British team via the North East Ridge, followed later by French and Japanese expeditions from various faces.
This mountain is more than just a climb—it’s a testament to the mystery and majesty of the Karakoram, with a storied past linked to early 20th-century geopolitical interests and mountaineering ambition.
Why Climb Mustagh Tower?
- One of the most iconic peaks on the Baltoro Glacier
- Known for technical, steep alpine climbs
- Rarely attempted – offers prestige and solitude
- Surrounding views of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and Trango Towers
- In-depth historical value, explored during early British military surveys of the region
Expedition Route
The expedition follows the classic Baltoro route—a well-established trekking corridor that takes you from Askoli to Concordia, offering unmatched views of the world’s highest peaks. The approach to Mustagh Tower branches off around Goro, where base camp is established beneath the tower’s north face.
Expedition Itinerary
Days 1–5: Islamabad to Askoli
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad – hotel check-in and rest
- Day 2: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas (weather-dependent)
- Day 3: If overland, drive from Chilas to Skardu
- Day 4: Free day in Skardu for expedition preparation
- Day 5: Jeep drive to Askoli, the final road-accessible village
Days 6–12: Trek to Mustagh Tower Base Camp
- Day 6: Trek to Jhola
- Day 7: Trek to Paiyu
- Day 8: Rest/acclimatization day at Paiyu
- Day 9: Trek to Urdukas
- Day 10: Trek to Goro
- Day 11: Acclimatization walk and gear check
- Day 12: Trek to Mustagh Tower Base Camp
Days 13–37: Climbing Period
- Establish high camps on ridgelines and glaciers
- Route scouting and acclimatization
- Attempt summit during favorable weather window
- Backup/contingency days for snow, wind, and rest
Days 38–45: Return and Departure
- Days 38–40: Trek back to Askoli
- Day 41: Jeep ride to Skardu
- Day 42: Fly/drive to Islamabad or Chilas
- Day 43: Free day in Islamabad / drive if no flight
- Day 44: Buffer day in Islamabad
- Day 45: Departure – end of expedition
What’s Included
- Airport transfers, hotel accommodation in Islamabad, Skardu, and Chilas
- Domestic flights (or ground transport via KKH)
- All trekking permits and climbing documentation
- Liaison officer and coordination with Ministry of Tourism
- Support staff, high-altitude porters, cook, and guides
- Full base camp setup (mess tent, kitchen, sleeping tents)
- Satellite communication for emergencies
- Medical first aid kits and group equipment
Climbing Requirements
- Participants must have technical mountaineering experience
- Proficiency in alpine-style climbing, ice climbing, and glacier travel
- Experience with high-altitude acclimatization strategies
- Strong physical and mental endurance
Note: Mustagh Tower is not suitable for beginner climbers.
