Duration: 45 Days | Location: Baltoro Glacier, Karakoram Range | Season: June–August
Organized by PakJourney – Specialist in High-Altitude Mountaineering in Pakistan
Overview
Chogolisa, standing at 7,665 meters (25,148 ft), is often called the “Bride Peak” for its graceful, snow-crowned silhouette. Nestled near Concordia, at the heart of the Karakoram, Chogolisa boasts two main summits connected by a sweeping horizontal ridge—the South-West summit (7,665m) and the North-East summit (7,654m). Despite its stunning beauty and proximity to other legendary peaks like K2 and Broad Peak, Chogolisa remains a rarely attempted mountain, adding to its allure for serious climbers seeking solitude and serenity.
Historic Significance
- In 1957, after successfully summiting Broad Peak, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa but were forced back due to poor weather. Tragically, Buhl fell through a cornice during descent and perished—his body never recovered.
- 1958: The North-East summit was first climbed by a Japanese expedition.
- 1975: The South-West summit was first reached by Austrian climbers G. Ammerer and F. Pressl.
This mountain is a silent witness to both the triumph and tragedy of high-altitude mountaineering.
Why Climb Chogolisa?
- Less commercialized 7,000m+ peak ideal for skilled climbers seeking a peaceful challenge
- Visually stunning pyramid-shaped summit with commanding views of the Baltoro Glacier, K2, and Broad Peak
- High success rate in stable weather due to relatively less technical terrain
- Great acclimatization objective for future 8000m expeditions
Trekking & Climbing Route
The route begins in Islamabad, leading through Skardu, Askole, and the mighty Baltoro Glacier. Trekkers pass key alpine waypoints like Paiyu, Urdukas, and Concordia—often described as the “Throne Room of the Mountain Gods.” The Chogolisa Base Camp lies close to Concordia, making it one of the most picturesque high camps in the world.
Climbers usually aim for the South-West face, a non-technical yet demanding route that combines glacier travel, steep snow, and ridgeline navigation.
Detailed Itinerary
Phase 1: Arrival & Approach
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad
- Day 2: Fly to Skardu (or drive to Chilas if flight cancelled)
- Day 3: Drive from Chilas to Skardu
- Day 4: Free day for preparation and sightseeing in Skardu
- Day 5: Jeep drive to Askole – last village before trek starts
- Day 6: Trek to Jhola
- Day 7: Trek to Paiyu
- Day 8: Acclimatization and rest day at Paiyu
- Day 9: Trek to Urdukas
- Day 10: Trek to Goro
- Day 11: Urdukas to Goro (buffer or flexible routing)
- Day 12: Trek to Concordia – camp beneath K2 and Broad Peak
- Day 13: Trek to Chogolisa Base Camp
Phase 2: Climbing
- Days 14–37: Reserved for summit rotation, route fixing, acclimatization, and summit push
- Setup Camp I, Camp II, and Summit Camp as needed
- Summit attempt window based on weather forecast
Phase 3: Return Trek
- Day 38: Trek from Base Camp to Ali Camp
- Day 39: Cross Gondogoro La (5,585m) – Trek to Shedcho
- Day 40: Trek from Shedcho to Hushe village
- Day 41: Drive to Skardu via Khaplu
Phase 4: Return to Islamabad
- Day 42: Flight to Islamabad or drive to Chilas
- Day 43: Drive from Chilas to Islamabad (if required)
- Day 44: Free day in Islamabad (buffer/rest day)
- Day 45: Transfer to airport for international flight – end of services
What’s Included
- All permits including mountaineering clearance from Ministry of Tourism
- Liaison officer, cook, and porter support
- Hotel accommodation in Islamabad, Chilas & Skardu
- Full base camp setup and trekking logistics
- Domestic flights or overland transport
- Professional local climbing staff
- All meals (B/L/D) during expedition
Expedition Requirements
- Previous 7,000m or high-altitude glacier climbing experience
- Strong alpine fitness and endurance
- Familiarity with crevasse rescue, crampons, and ice axe techniques
- Flexible schedule for weather and acclimatization delays
