Duration: 35 Days | Region: Nagar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan | Range: Karakoram | Best Time: June – August
Organized by PakJourney – Explore Pakistan’s Hidden High-Altitude Gems
Overview
Diran Peak (7,266m / 23,861 ft)—also known locally as Minapin Peak—stands as one of the most picturesque and technically moderate 7000m mountains in the Karakoram. Located near the Minapin, Hinarchi, and Baultar glaciers in the Nagar Valley, Diran is accessible via the Karakoram Highway, making it one of the most logistically simple 7000m peaks to approach.
Its elegant snow dome shape and prominent presence above the Hunza and Nagar Valleys make it a visual landmark for travelers heading to Rakaposhi or Khunjerab. Unlike its neighbors Rakaposhi and Haramosh, Diran is less crowded, offering tranquility and raw alpine beauty.
This expedition is ideal for climbers transitioning from 6000m peaks and looking to challenge themselves on a high-altitude snow climb without the extreme technical demands of other Karakoram giants.
Why Climb Diran Peak?
- Easily accessible via the Karakoram Highway
- Less technical than other 7000m peaks
- Ideal pre-8000m training peak
- Offers sweeping views of Rakaposhi, Ultar, and Hunza peaks
- Unique alpine meadows, traditional villages, and hidden glaciers
- A rewarding challenge with lower logistics cost compared to K2 region peaks
Historical Significance
The first successful ascent of Diran was made in 1968 by an Austrian expedition, who reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge, encountering hidden crevasses and soft snow domes. A previous attempt in 1964 failed due to poor weather, though no injuries occurred.
Despite being relatively lesser-known compared to other Karakoram peaks, Diran has earned admiration among mountaineers for its aesthetic symmetry and manageable technical grade.
Expedition Route
The expedition begins from Gilgit and heads north along the Karakoram Highway to Minapin village. The trek leads through Taghafari meadows and then to Diran Base Camp with a backdrop of Rakaposhi and ice-covered ridges.
Expedition Itinerary
Days 1–6: Arrival and Trek to Base Camp
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad – transfer to hotel
- Day 2: Drive to Chilas via Karakoram Highway
- Day 3: Drive to Gilgit
- Day 4: Drive to Minapin village – overnight in local lodge
- Day 5: Trek to Taghafari Meadows – camp near lush pasture
- Day 6: Trek to Diran Base Camp (~3,700m) – camp setup
Days 7–30: Climbing Period
- Route exploration and acclimatization
- Set up high camps (Camp I, Camp II)
- Summit push window based on weather
- Extra days for safety, rest, and backups
Days 31–35: Return and De-brief
- Day 31: Trek back to Minapin
- Day 32: Drive to Chilas
- Day 33: Drive to Islamabad
- Day 34: De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism
- Day 35: Departure – end of expedition
What’s Included
- Islamabad airport pickup and hotel accommodation
- All domestic transport via private vehicle
- Trekking and climbing permits from Gilgit & Ministry of Tourism
- Experienced Pakistani climbing staff and porters
- Full base camp setup with tents and kitchen
- All meals during trek and climb (B/L/D)
- Liaison officer and briefing/debriefing arrangements
- Emergency coordination (rescue not included)
Climber Requirements
- Previous experience with high-altitude trekking or 6000m peaks
- Proficiency in glacier travel and crevasse awareness
- Good fitness level and acclimatization ability
- Basic alpine climbing gear (ice axe, crampons, harness, etc.)
Note: Though technically moderate, Diran Peak involves crevasse navigation and snow conditions that require caution.
