Duration: 50 Days | Region: Hushe Valley, Baltistan | Range: Karakoram | Season: June – August
Organized by PakJourney – Experience Pakistan’s Most Iconic Alpine Challenges
Overview
Masherbrum (7,821m)—locally known as the “Shining Mountain”—is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and one of the most technically challenging climbs in Pakistan’s Karakoram range. Originally named K1 by British surveyor Capt. T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 during the Great Trigonometric Survey, Masherbrum stands proud above the Hushe Valley and remains an elite summit for seasoned alpinists.
Though often overshadowed by nearby K2 and Broad Peak, Masherbrum is known for its steep rock faces, complex icefalls, and frequent avalanches, making it one of the most difficult 7000m peaks in the Karakoram. It is a serious objective for climbers seeking isolation, adventure, and legacy.
Why Climb Masherbrum?
- Technically demanding and less commercialized climb
- Part of Karakoram’s first surveyed peaks (K1)
- Stunning Hushe Valley approach—lush, scenic, and culturally rich
- Unique mix of alpine rock and ice climbing
- Opportunity to follow the legacy of past legendary expeditions
Historical Significance
Masherbrum’s climbing history is marked by ambition and perseverance.
- First serious attempt: 1938 by James Waller and team
- Successful first ascent: 1960 Pak-American Expedition led by Nick Clinch, including Dr. George Bell and Captain Javed Akhtar (Pakistan Army)
- Second successful ascent: 1981 Polish team, but at tragic cost with casualties during descent
Despite these early ascents, Masherbrum remains infrequently climbed, reserved for elite climbers due to its complex terrain and unpredictable weather.
Expedition Route & Terrain
Starting from Islamabad, this expedition moves north to Skardu, then onward to the Hushe Valley, followed by treks to Brumbramah and Masherbrum Base Camp (MBBC). The mountain’s challenging glacier approach, steep ridges, rock walls, and icefalls demand precise planning and fitness. The SE and NW ridges are the most commonly attempted routes.
Expedition Itinerary
Days 1–7: Approach to Base Camp
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad – transfer to hotel
- Day 2: Flight to Skardu or drive to Chilas if flight unavailable
- Day 3: Continue drive to Skardu
- Day 4: Free day in Skardu (permits, logistics)
- Day 5: Jeep drive to Hushe Village
- Day 6: Trek to Brumbramah campsite
- Day 7: Trek to Masherbrum Base Camp (MBBC)
Days 8–45: Climbing Phase
- Route fixing, high camp setup (Camp I, II, III)
- Acclimatization and summit attempts (weather-dependent)
- Multiple backup days for flexibility and safety
Days 46–50: Return & Departure
- Day 46: Trek back to Hushe, then drive to Skardu
- Day 47: Drive to Chilas
- Day 48: Drive to Islamabad
- Day 49: Free day / buffer in Islamabad
- Day 50: Fly home – end of expedition
What’s Included
- Domestic flights or ground transport
- Permit arrangement and Ministry of Tourism coordination
- Experienced local climbing guides and support team
- Porters, tents, base camp setup, and full board (B/L/D)
- Liaison officer fees, insurance, and logistics
- Hotel accommodations in Islamabad, Chilas & Skardu
Who Should Join?
This climb is ideal for:
- Experienced alpinists with 6000m–7000m summit experience
- Those seeking a technically demanding expedition
- Climbers preparing for 8000m peaks like K2 or Nanga Parbat
- Expeditioners who appreciate remote and less-commercial routes