Duration: 50 Days | Region: Nagar, Gilgit-Baltistan | Altitude: 7,788 meters | Best Season: June to August
Organized by PakJourney – Your Gateway to the Giant Walls of the Karakoram
Overview
Rakaposhi (7,788m), locally known as Dumani, meaning “Mother of Mist” or “Shining Wall”, is one of the most iconic and picturesque 7000m peaks in the world. Located between Gilgit and Nagar Valley, this towering giant dominates the landscape for miles and is considered among the most beautiful peaks visible from the Karakoram Highway (KKH).
Its proximity to major roads and towns makes it one of the most accessible high-altitude expeditions in Pakistan, yet it demands technical climbing expertise due to steep icy slopes, rockfalls, and long summit ridges. The Juglot and Bagrot Nallah approaches are the most preferred routes due to their relatively better terrain and scenic trekking paths.
Key Features
- One of the most beautiful and visible peaks in the world
- Towering over the Hunza and Nagar valleys with mesmerizing views
- A technically challenging climb through glacier ice and rock terrain
- Accessible base camp near Bagrot Valley via a scenic drive from Gilgit
- Surrounded by Biro, Barpu, and Pissan glaciers, offering a glacier-lover’s paradise
- Cultural exposure to Nagar village life, local cuisine, and folklore
Climbing Details
- Height: 7,788m / 25,551 ft
- Location: Karakoram Range, Nagar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
- Climbing Route: Bagrot Nala – Bilchar – Rakaposhi Basecamp – SE Ridge
- Grade: Alpine PD+/AD; glacier travel, technical snow and mixed climbing
- Ideal For: Experienced climbers aiming to transition from 6,000m to major 7,000m peaks
Itinerary
Approach
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad – Transfer to hotel
- Day 2: Expedition briefing at Ministry of Tourism
- Day 3: Drive to Chilas via Karakoram Highway (KKH)
- Day 4: Drive to Gilgit
- Day 5: Drive to Bagrot Nallah (start of trekking route)
- Day 6: Trek to Bilchar – green pastures and river crossing
- Day 7: Trek to Rakaposhi Base Camp (4,000m)
Climbing Period
- Day 8–43:
- Establishment of high camps (C1, C2, C3)
- Acclimatization, route fixing, summit attempt
- Weather window dependent ascent of Rakaposhi (7,788m)
Descent
- Day 44: Trek back to Bilchar
- Day 45: Trek back to Bagrot Nallah
- Day 46: Drive to Gilgit
Return to Islamabad
- Day 47: Drive to Besham
- Day 48: Drive to Islamabad
- Day 49: Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism
- Day 50: Fly to your next destination – End of Expedition
What’s Included
- Climbing permits and coordination with the Ministry of Tourism
- Domestic transport (air or overland), all transfers
- Hotels in Islamabad, Gilgit, Chilas, and full base camp setup
- Tents, food, porters, cook, liaison officer, and experienced high-altitude guides
- Medical support and evacuation coordination
- Cultural exploration in Gilgit–Baltistan region
Additional Info
- Summit Success Rate: Moderate
- Risk Factors: Glacier crevasses, icefalls, altitude sickness
- Physical Requirements: Exceptional fitness, previous experience at 6,000m+
- Best Climbing Season: June to mid-August