Duration: 45 Days | Region: Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan | Altitude: 7,388 meters | Best Season: June to September
Organized by PakJourney – Your Expert in Karakoram High-Altitude Expeditions
Overview
Ultar Peak (7,388m), known as the Princess of Hunza, rises dramatically above Karimabad in the Hunza Valley, forming part of the majestic Batura Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram. Its sharp ridges, massive vertical relief, and technical climbing make it one of the most awe-inspiring and demanding 7000-meter peaks in Pakistan.
Situated just 113 km from Gilgit and 715 km from Islamabad, Ultar lies near famous landmarks like Ladyfinger Peak, Passu Peak, Diran, and Marble Peak. The surrounding glaciers—Ultar Glacier, Attabad Glacier, and Hussainabad Glacier—enhance its glacial setting, creating a magnificent landscape that lures elite climbers worldwide.
In 1997, a Japanese expedition made the first successful ascent, making it one of the youngest climbed peaks in Pakistan’s mountaineering history.
Highlights
- One of the most technically challenging 7,000m+ peaks in the Karakoram
- Spectacular view of Hunza Valley, Ladyfinger, and Batura Group Peaks
- Rarely attempted, providing a sense of exclusivity and alpine isolation
- Beautiful trekking approach through Bath Bakor and Shamir Harar meadows
- Rich Hunza hospitality and culture during approach and return phases
Climbing Conditions
- Difficulty: Extremely Technical (D+/TD): Ice, rockfalls, crevasses, steep ridges
- Experience Required: Advanced mountaineering experience over 6,000m, rope work, glacier rescue, high endurance
- Risks: Ice and rockfall, overhanging ridges, variable snow conditions
- Summit Success Rate: Very low – only one known successful summit in 1997
Itinerary
Phase 1: Arrival & Approach
- Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad – Hotel Transfer
- Day 2: Expedition briefing at Ministry of Tourism
- Day 3: Drive to Chilas on the Karakoram Highway (KKH)
- Day 4: Drive to Karimabad, then jeep to Shahabad village
- Day 5: Trek to Shamir Harar – forested trail with views of Ultar glacier
- Day 6: Trek to Bath Bakor – alpine meadows and ridgeline path
- Day 7: Trek to Ultar Base Camp (~4,300m)
Phase 2: Climbing Days
- Days 8 to 37:
- Climbing period
- Establish high camps (Camp I, II, III) on steep ice and rocky terrain
- Acclimatization and summit attempt window
- Weather-dependent summit bid on Ultar Peak (7,388m)
Phase 3: Descent
- Day 38: Return to Base Camp
- Day 39: Trek down to Bath Bakor
- Day 40: Trek to Shamir Harar
- Day 41: Trek to Shahabad, jeep to Karimabad
Phase 4: Return & Debriefing
- Day 42-43: Drive back to Islamabad via Chilas
- Day 44: Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism
- Day 45: Departure – End of Services
Services Included
- Climbing permits, liaison officer & government documentation
- Domestic transport (AC van/jeep) and airport pickups
- Full board accommodation in Islamabad, Chilas, Karimabad
- Porters, base camp staff, and experienced climbing guide
- Base camp tents, meals, and logistics
- Medical and evacuation support (first-aid and satellite phone)
Additional Information
- Best Months to Climb: Mid-June to August
- Weather Conditions: Highly variable; rapid snow, avalanche risk
- Fitness Level: Must be in top physical and mental shape
- Emergency Protocols: High-altitude evacuation plans in place
